Rip's Tips - Gadgets ![]() |
Other tip pages: general comments | rigging | settling in | fixing stuff | gadgets | discussion
This particular tip page highlights different gadgets I've found useful with my '99 Triton TR21 and Mercury 225 or asks if anyone knows of an idea that improves a particular feature...
![]() above - TransducerSaver mounted on a MotorGuide remember, click any image for larger view |
Tip: Transducer Protector -
I purchased
a TransducerSaver from an entrepreneur
Russell Harrod in Conroe, Texas. I have not been able to reach him for several
years now.
He made two-fin and three-fin protectors. I installed a special one with two protection fins designed to fit my year model MotorGuide and adapted to mount a Lowrance skimmer-style transducer.
Update - I place a small patch of rubber from a tire inner tube under it for cushion and grip. I also attach a flap of rubber along the side of my trolling motor to shield my transducer wire from impacts too. The clamp holds the side patch of inner tube rubber in place so it simply flaps snugly over the wire. Click on picture for larger view. This has been a very good product for me ever since I purchased it in '99, well worth what I paid for it. My trolling motor looks like it's been in a war zone. The stainless protector looks new like I just installed it. Without it, my transducer would likely be scrap on a west Texas rocky point or an east Texas stump. I found a similar product (not stainless) during recent boat shows or BASS Classics from a company called Innovative Angler http://www.innovative-angler.com/ and I picked up several of these as gifts for friends. No complaints on these over the years, just compliments and thank you's. |
![]() above - old outlets without scupper valve above - inside look at installed T-H Marine thru-hull scuppers above - example of add-on scuppers remember, click any image for larger view |
Tip: Live Well Overflow - I finally figured
out that the large overflow drain pipes for
the '97-'99 live-wells take in considerable
water at launch or off-plane. This
situation mysteriously adds water to what
you may have expected to be an empty
live-well.
I reread the '99 Triton System Manual, and there's a warning about this anomaly there too! This "back flow" is a side-effect from enlarged overflow pipes designed to match the substantial 750 gph delivery of your live-well freshwater intake pumps. That's right, these overflows are big on purpose. When I first asked about this, a temporary suggestion was offered by Triton to remember to pump it out every once in a while. Smile now, don't be so serious all the time. If you have a better solution, please email me.
Update - You can get something called scuppers that fit over the outlets to prevent back flow. It simply uses a rubber flap to let water flow out but not back in. T-H Marine offers the thru-the-hull outlets with the scuppers built in used as an improvement by Triton on later year-2000 models. Note: these new thru-hull outlets may be a little larger than the '97-'99 outlet holes. I had my dealer install these thru-hull versions for me (see middle picture left). Several readers suggested Sea Dog's scupper valve (see bottom picture left), as an add-on for '97-'99 models that screws "onto" the existing outlet. These cost about $3-$5 each depending on where you buy them. T-H Marine also offers add-on versions. When adding, use small screws to stay on outlet edge and not chip fiberglass underneath and also secure with a small lip of silicone sealant applied carefully not to interfere with the flap. |
Tip/Troubleshoot: Bow Trim Switch - I
quickly learned to be careful about
stepping on or bumping the convenient
trim-switch in the bow panel. I also
learned that a trolling motor steering
cable or other objects can press on it with
the boat cover on.
I feel this handy feature needs a raised shield or a recess for safety and have not learned of a "Triton quality" solution or any aftermarket solutions yet. If you have a solution, please email me. |
![]() above - convenient bow trim switch |
![]() above - lights stowed on lid of rod box Above - parts to remount lite holders Above - nut placed inside holders for one side Above - holders mounted and both lite poles stored Above - lites remounted sideways |
Tip: Light Stowage - The navigation
lights conveniently stow under the port
rod locker lid.
I sometimes drive rough water. When I open the locker, I may find the lights laying in the rods. If you have learned about some solution or an aftermarket product that helps keep these more secure, please email me.
Update... Another nice discovery, I looked under the bow accessory panel when my dealer installed the Lowrance X-48. The rod locker carpet extends under and beyond the built-in rod holder almost to the nose tip, an area most boaters never see to realize the quality and care in Triton design. While discussing a sideways latch to hold the lite poles in with Greg Heinz, he simply suggested why not mount them sideways on a little bracket. Greg is a smart man. So, a package of brass L brackets, an extra mount and a few nuts for the old mount screws later, I go to work on mounting the poles sideways under the lid. The only trick was to put a nut inside holders for one side of the two back to back pairs. That way the screw could go thru one mount to the nut in the other, holding them back to back. Above - holder sideways for base of larger pole Above - both poles back to back sideways |
![]() above - ShockBlock on mount in closed position above - view from the side above - how it looks with mount open (remember -click any picture for larger view) |
Tip: ShockBlock for Troll Motor - I
ordered a $17 ShockBlock from Buck at
Osprey Products (see my "Triton and
other links" page). It's a soft plastic-like
stop that can be bolted onto the
MotorGuide Gator Mount used on my
Triton. Different sizes are available. The
product is designed to help stabilize a
stowed trolling motor in rough conditions.
Well, it handled rough water well. The retracted troll motor stayed rock solid as I drove over those main lake rollers around Veach on Sam Rayburn and around the hour-glass neck at Limestone. The snub did its job, adding a foundation for the retracted arm of the Motor Guide Gator Mount. The gel-coat under the snub still looks good. The ShockBlock is simple, practical, effective. |
Tip: Spring return for old Gator Mount
- Every time I bumped into a stump in muddy water
with my trolling motor, my Motor Guide's Gator
Mount would do what it's supposed to do... give a
little at the pivot point. But, then I'd have to loosen
the tension knobs, pull the motor back, and tighten
the tension knobs.
After a morning of bumping into my hundredth stump over on Toledo Bend, I'm ready to buy the new Gator Mount with springs in it or (gulp, flinch, twitch) buy a giant Minn Kota terrain model. Spring Break to the rescue. We read about this $20 add-on accessory in Honey Hole magazine. My friend, Gerald, and I looked for them at Academy (it's from the same guy that makes that great ProKonTroll pivoting steering stick for the hand steer trolling motors) but they didn't have them. Gerald called and ordered it for us. If you can't find it local, try Outdoor Texas online at http://www.outdoortexas.com/spg.htm or Trolling Motors Unlimited at 504-277-9595 or the manufacturer, PIC, at 888-868-0238. It took about five minutes to install by removing the old tension knobs and bolts, inserting the pin, capping each side, then stretching the two springs over that pin and the pivot pin on the motor mount using the tool provided. I used a small hammer and wood blocks to tap caps onto the pin after inserting it. A friend held one block against the pin as a back-stop. I also used a vise-grip to hold the flimsy "tool" while pulling the spring from one pin to another. My friend pushed down with back of a screwdriver to snap the spring down when I got the end over the pivot pin.
Update: I had my usual stump bump morning at Toledo Bend. The Gator Mount gave and pulled back into place over and over. See me grinning from ear-to-ear. When you have the motor on higher power and steer backwards, it will fold under but not using lower power. It did that for me with the old tension knobs anyway. The springs are not huge like the new Gator Mount II. Small price to pay for the convenience, and it pulls back when you power down or steer in forward directions again. I also have a TransducerSaver so I don't worry about my transducer under the motor while bumping through these east Texas stump fields. After a month, I experimented with a third and forth spring from a pair I picked up at Tractor Supply Company (Century C-259 package). Kinda beefs it up like the new Spring Break that PIC will offer for the larger Motor Guides. Note - I had to grind a bit of the hook off on the spring ends so they would hook over the pins like the originals. |
![]() Above - Spring Break parts Above - taking off old tension knobs and inside bolts Above - springs mounted over pins Above - Extra springs from Tractor Supply Above - extra spring mounted remember - click any image for larger view |
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This intro page last updated March 11, 2010